A clogged drain or drain blockage is no fun at all. Sometimes, you can clear it out quickly. Other times, you might have to use several methods to take care of it. Here are a few tips to help you bust a clog as quickly as possible: Even though chemicals can work quickly, if you use them first, then most other methods can't be used without danger of chemical burns or damage. Use chemicals last. Plungers can be used on almost every drain and are an easy way to start. If the drain has an overflow or shared drain, such as in the case of a bathtub or kitchen sink, close off the overflow or second drain to get the best suction. Another tip is to clean the edge of the plunger and then put a little petroleum jelly ..
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We are always happy to answer your Plumbing inspection drain repair questions. Our plumbers are here to help you with any drain cleaning or plumbing problems, such as clogged drain pipes camera inspections for drainage problems and other plumbing and drain services.  Mississauga Oakville Burlington and Etobicoke.. Plumbers and PlumbingContractors

Determining the type of drainage system


You must ascertain the type of drainage system you have before attempting to unblock a main drain.
The system most commonly used is the single stack system. The wastewater and soil pipes are all connected to the same single stack.

Although drains run underground, they nearly always run in straight lines between the inspection chambers, gullies, fittings and stacks. Inspection chambers or manholes exist at every point where pipes join and where the direction or gradient of the drain changes.

In older properties the inspection chambers can be brick built rectangular structures with cast iron or galvanized steel covers. In newer houses plastic chambers can often be found with iron or steel covers. In older houses built before the Second World War the waste pipes are often divided into two separate pipe systems.

Waste from the WC is fed directly into a pipe of a larger diameter - soil stack, leading to the underground drains. The drain gases are discharged at a safe height into the open air above the house guttering.

The waste pipes from your plumbing fittings leading from upstairs baths and washbasins reach the waste stack directly, via a hopper funneling the water into another vertical pipe.

An unpleasant smell from the inspection chamber is usually the first sign of a blocked drain. Sometimes if the blockage is severe, sewage can overflow from a gully or from under the cover of an inspection chamber.



Removing the manhole cover



Lift the manhole cover nearest to the house. It is not easy as cast iron covers are very heavy.
If it is rusted in around the edge, use a screwdriver to scrape around the edge, then tap round the edge with a hammer.

If it is still resisting movement, tap the cover gently with some wood and the vibration should be sufficient to release the cover from its seating. Insert a spade under one edge to raise the cover, place some wood under the edge to support the weight and lift it aside.

Special keys are available for help in raising the lid, but if a key is unavailable, a strong hook or piece of bent steel will suffice. If the covers have small handles in the form of small bars across the indents. Here loops of string or wire through the bars attached to a large piece of timber can be lifted by two people supporting the timber.

If the cover is secured by screw bolts, it is wise to soak them in oil before attempting to undo them with a wrench or spanner, then continue in the same way as above.



Finding and clearing the blockage



Once removed, if the manhole is clear, the blockage is between the manhole and the house. The only effective tools for this job are a set of drain rods because they are flexible, unlike a stick.
Sometimes a small blockage could be cleared by plunging with a mop or use of a stick, but the outlets and inlets are hidden by effluent and flexible rods are usually required.

Screw two rods together and slide them into the chamber in the direction of the suspected blockage. Screw on another rod and continue pushing, whilst maneuvering the rods vigorously back and forth. Always turn the rods in a clockwise direction as you push them, this will stop the rod loosening or a joint undoing whilst underground. Continue until you feel the blockage clear.

The chamber should then be flushed thoroughly to remove all traces of debris. Sometimes the blockage is caused by a build up of fat in the chamber. Flush hot soapy water through the chamber to help remove any remaining debris.

If the blockage cannot be located, it must be further down the run. Lift the next manhole cover and repeat the process.

If the lowest manhole is blocked, then the blockage must be between that manhole and the sewer. If it is an interceptor trap, the blockages are nearly always in the trap.

The trap is usually full of effluent, some stoppers are on a chain otherwise feel for the handle with a stick and try to hook it out of its socket. Try not to let the stopper fall and block the trap. Use the rods through to the sewer and then flush out the channel with running water to clear debris.

Replace the stopper and before replacing the cover smear a little grease around the frame to stop any rust in the future.